Printing note: This design was created to be 8.5″ x 14″ and the design pdf will print best on legal size paper.

Designer Statement

My work focuses on the best way to translate natural plant community organization in the wild to an urban and suburban landscape where anyone can DIY a natural garden. Matrix design best approximates what we see in wild meadows and prairies where the matrix is composed of an interlocking baselayer of bunchgrasses and/or sedge species. From that living green mulch layer emerge masses and drifts of forbs/flowers that express themselves throughout the growing season — and even through winter. When we repeat those patterns of forbs in a landscape we also help the viewer’s eye flow across the space and read it, connecting the dots, and seeing purpose as well as connection to the wilder unlawned landscape. Selecting plants purposefully, based on bloom succession, shape, and color is the obvious way to start planning, but researching sociability is the most critical step, especially if we want to reduce management and frustration a few years post establishment. Each plant’s gregariousness is matched to the site, the niche in the landscape layer, and to one another to create a woven fabric of vegetation that heals the site, revives nature, and provides beauty for all species as the garden changes and evolves naturally over time. Gardening with nature is not only healthier but it’s smarter, even if it takes more up-front investment in learning about the plants. Ultimately, I try to let plants guide the management and design tweaking, letting them tell the story and show what needs to be done over time as we work together to support ecosystem function and wildlife.

Site Analysis

Doing a site analysis is critical to proper plant selection and helping reduce management over time by place plants correctly on the site and among one another. For this plan, we are assuming a rather level grade or slight slope away from the house, as well as a clay-loam soil that is moderately compacted. The front and back yards are in fairly pristine tall fescue lawn and our goal is to work with what we have to reduce expense and labor.  

Preparation Method 

There are many strategies to employ when converting a lawn to a designed meadow garden, and each have their pros and cons; choosing the one that syncs up best with your ability, pocketbook, and time frame is critical. For this site, we applied one treatment of glyphosate, broadcast 1.5” of shredded wood mulch (front), then planted directly into the ground. This method results in less site disturbance and fewer weeds while letting the dead lawn add organic matter as it breaks down. For the backyard, we scalped the lawn after spraying, raked it out, and then broadcast Bouteloua gracilis seed directly into the dead lawn. 

Design Considerations and Features

This design uses a matrix planting strategy, a naturalistic approach that mimics the dense, layered plant communities found in prairies and meadows. A base layer of sedges and bunchgrasses stabilizes the soil, suppresses weeds, and provides structure for the entire landscape. Flowering perennials and forbs are woven through this matrix to add seasonal interest and color, supporting local biodiversity and helping the garden evolve dynamically throughout the year​.

Trees Selection and Underplanting

The planting under the trees or within the dripline — as well as the north foundation bed — is composed of shade tolerant and woodland edge species using two sedges as the matrix/living green mulch/groundcover. It’s a good idea to try and blend the sun/shade matrix plants in the area around the tree’s drip line.

Suggesting a native tree is highly site specific and dependent on what the landowner wants. One great option is Ulmus americana ‘Princeton’ (American elm), which has a classic vase shape that allows plenty of sunlight to filter around its base. This helps support vibrant underplantings and maintains good visibility through and around the tree. For something smaller but just as impactful, consider Quercus prinoides (dwarf chinkapin oak) or Prunus virginiana (chokecherry). While these tend to grow as large shrubs, they can be pruned to be small trees.

Front Yard

The front yard is arranged in a structured, garden-like layout, with a focus on creating visual interest through tight spacing and plant groupings.

The matrix is established using Bouteloua gracilis (blue grama) as the base layer. To add more height and texture in sunnier areas, Bouteloua curtipendula (sideoats grama) is can be used to replace the shorter Bouteloua gracilis.

The integration of other species, such as Carex albicans (white-tinged sedge) and Carex sprengelii (Sprengel’s sedge), adds textural contrast and establishes a living green mulch around tree bases and along foundation beds. This matrix structure serves as a visual foundation for colorful drifts of forbs like Aquilegia canadensis (wild columbine), Rudbeckia hirta (black-eyed susan), and Symphyotrichum oblongifolium (aromatic aster), which provide seasonal interest and support for pollinators throughout the growing season.

Backyard

In contrast to the front, the backyard offers a mellow, clean, even modern and simple landscape using a blend of native prairie grasses and flowering perennials. The matrix layer is primarily established using Bouteloua gracilis (blue grama) planted directly into the dead, scalped lawn.

Forbs and flowering perennials are interspersed throughout the matrix. Drifts of ten Aquilegia canadensis (wild columbine) and Rudbeckia hirta (black-eyed susan) add early and summer season color, respectively. There are also individual, spaced-out specimen plantings (marked by blue dots) of Symphyotrichum oblongifolium (aromatic aster), which provide late-season nectar and vibrant fall color. Additionally, clumps of Liatris aspera (button blazingstar) punctuate the landscape, offering upright structure and rich purple hues that attract pollinators.

Backyard shade plantings feature Carex albicans (white-tinged sedge) with drifts of Carex sprengelii (Sprengel’s sedge) fading back into the sunnier matrix of Bouteloua gracilis (blue grama).

Paths

Paths are a key feature in any garden design, guiding movement and providing structure. In this design, you can keep the existing tall fescue (Schedonorus arundinaceus) lawn as a simple, green walkway by mowing it regularly. If you want a lower-maintenance option, consider swapping the grass for mulch or gravel. These materials create a more defined path and blend seamlessly into the natural aesthetic of the garden. While some might consider Bouteloua dactyloides (buffalo grass) as a replacement, it often requires as much upkeep as traditional fescue due to its sparse growth and vulnerability to weeds. Choose the path material that fits your needs and enhances your garden’s natural beauty.

Phasing

To help manage costs and labor, the project can be divided into phases, allowing for flexibility and adaptation as the garden is established. Phase 1 focuses on the front foundation bed, where starting with a smaller, more controlled area can help build experience and confidence with matrix planting techniques. Phase 2 expands to the front yard, providing a more significant visual impact and increasing habitat space for wildlife. Phase 3 moves to the backyard, offering opportunities to experiment with additional plant diversity and different design elements. Alternatively, you could switch Phases 2 and 3 depending on your priorities for visibility and accessibility.

You may find that the number of forb specimens are not enough and you’d like more, or that over time you’d like to increase the diversity and structure and bloom succession. There’s plenty of room to do that in the ground cover layer in both sun and shade areas.  

Management 

During the first year weed control is critical. We expect mostly annuals like foxtail and crabgrass, which can quickly outpace the native plant plugs and look gangly, so deadheading them is important for aesthetics; however, since these are annual species, there’s no need to pull, which disturbs the soil and brings up more weed seeds to germinate. Since we are planting so densely, on 6-12 inch centers or seeding, the garden will start to out-compete most weed species in years 2-3, and weed control will be much less of an issue. Each spring the landscape in the sunny areas should be mowed down to 6 inches around April 1, while the shade areas with sedge are left alone.  

Watering schedules in clay loam in southeast Nebraska vary based on weather and planting time of year, but generally, a 60-90 minute aerial or overhead soaking (not drip hoses) right after planting, followed by a 45-minute watering 2-3 times per week for 2-3 weeks gets us off to a good start. If fall planted, watering after the initial period isn’t usually needed, but in spring we suggest a weekly watering of 60 minutes for a few more weeks as well as a few times during a prolonged drought of several weeks (which is common in July, August, or even September). Watering in year two is often not required. Sown areas will need consistent surface soil moisture for the first 3-5 weeks to germinate the Bouteloua seed.

Plant List

About Wild Ones

Wild Ones (a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization) is a knowledgeable, hands-on, and supportive community focused on native plants and the ecosystem that depends on them. We provide resources and online learning opportunities with respected experts like Wild Ones Honorary Directors Doug Tallamy, Neil Diboll, Heather Holm, and Larry Weaner, publishing an award-winning journal, and awarding Lorrie Otto Seeds for Education Program grants to engage youth in caring for native gardens.

Wild Ones depends on membership dues, donations and gifts from individuals like you to carry out our mission of connecting people and native plants for a healthy planet.

Looking for more native gardening inspiration? Take a peek at what our members are growing!