Lexington, KY

Printing note: This design was created to be 8.5″ x 14″, and the design PDF will print best on legal-size paper.

Part of the Wild Ones Native Garden Design series, this garden plan was created by EARTHeim Landscape Design in Lexington, Kentucky. and the surrounding Interior Plateau ecoregion (8.3.3). The design helps homeowners replace traditional lawn with native plantings that thrive in the region’s alkaline soils, humid subtropical climate, and patchwork of sun and shade conditions.

This regionally tailored plan was created to support biodiversity, improve resilience to flooding and drought, and create a layered habitat for pollinators, birds, and other wildlife while offering a practical, beautiful alternative to conventional landscaping.

Designer Statement 

“Remagic your piece of earth” is something that we can do on our property by planting native plants and designing our yards to encourage sustainability. We should not think the landscaping around our home should be something static that should remain the same and only be there to accent our homes. The structure inside our homes may be mostly static and something we have only influenced. The outside, however, is home to an ever-changing landscape with weather, insects, animals, and microorganisms, which we have very little control over. While we want to reduce landscape maintenance so it’s practical for us to have, we must realize that a living landscape should benefit the environment and wildlife.

Site Conditions

Central Kentucky is now in USDA plant hardiness zone 7a. Our soils typically have a higher pH than Eastern Kentucky, for example, because we have limestone in our area. Many of the natural areas in our city are overrun with invasive species such as Japanese bush honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica), wintercreeper (Euonymus fortunei), privet (Ligustrum spp.), and Bradford pears (Pyrus calleryana). Our region has also felt the effects of climate change with an increase in flooding, ice storms, long, hot summers, dry weather, and extreme weather events. Many people want to start using native plants because they will be hardier in our climate.

At the site, I assess and take measurements of the landscape for existing locations of all features such as buildings, hardscapes, utilities, and trees. In this Lexington property, there is a mix of deep shade, part shade, and full sun areas. The north side of the home and the area under the redbud tree are some of the shadiest spots, while the northeastern corner of the backyard is a sunny area ideal for pollinator plantings.

In Central Kentucky, we have clay soils that are more alkaline due to our limestone soils. Especially in newer construction where oftentimes the topsoil is removed, I recommend that a layer of compost be added to the garden beds right after planting, and then once per year in the fall.

When I design, I also look at sunlight patterns, soil conditions, and drainage. I consider areas that may collect more rainwater or where drainage from structures will be diverted. If a plant likes moist soils, then I’ll use it in those wetter areas. This particular property includes areas that would be prone to summer drought and others with heavier spring moisture.

Design Approach

I begin by laying out hardscape features, then work on dividing the area into planting zones based on the microclimate of each space. I’m always thinking about how to use plants to make each zone aesthetically pleasing while also ecologically functional.

My goal is to put the right plant in the right place and to space them properly according to their mature size to reduce the need for pruning. Another goal is to cover the ground with a “living mulch” as much as possible with plants, which helps reduce the need for hardwood mulching and suppresses weeds naturally. I also consider the watering needs for the different species. A native plant garden can survive drought, but it will look better with some consistent water—especially in our hot Kentucky summers.

I try to educate my clients with interesting facts about plants as I collaborate with them through the design process. I think this makes the design more memorable, especially knowing how the native plants are providing ecosystem services.

Phasing

1. Hardscape

The first step to this garden’s installation would be to install the hardscape features before any plantings surrounding the hardscape are installed to prevent damage to the plants. Individual garden beds can be installed one at a time until the full landscape is complete.

2. Structure and Beds

Trees and shrubs are always nice to plant first since they need more time to mature and will make a nice impact. However, I urge clients to install garden beds in full rather than small bits across the whole property since you will not gain as much impact, and it will be a lot of maintenance until plants fully cover the ground.

3. Soil and Lawn Prep

Groundcover Plants
If needed, groundcover plants such as sedges (Carex spp.), wild ginger (Asarum canadense), Solomon’s seal (Polygonatum biflorum), black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta), dwarf crested iris (Iris cristata), and golden ragwort (Packera aurea) can be installed in smaller numbers and allowed to spread on their own. Some companies also sell plants as ‘plugs,’ which are sold in larger quantities in trays for a lesser cost than larger plants.

Lawn Removal
Existing lawn can be removed in several ways, either by manual removal with a sharp flat spade or a sod cutter machine. The sheet mulching or solarization methods can also be used, but this process is longer. Tilling should be avoided as this can damage soil and hurt native bees that nest in the ground.

Amending Soil
In Central Kentucky, we have clay soils that are more alkaline due to our limestone soils. Especially in newer construction where oftentimes the topsoil is removed, I recommend to my clients that a layer of compost be added to the garden beds right after planting, and then once per year in the fall. Some plants like the inkberry holly (Ilex glabra) will benefit from an organic fertilizer made for acidic soil type plants since we have more alkaline soils here.

Eco-lawn Alternative
There are some eco-lawn seed alternatives on the market if you are looking to remove traditional turf grass and install a lawn that is less maintenance. When researching seed blends, a homeowner should consider what kind of seed blend would be appropriate for their microclimate. Many seed blends are made for sunnier sites rather than shade. Some seed blends only need mowing once or twice per year.

Native sedges (Carex species) may also be considered a lawn alternative, which would not require mowing. There is also a trend of creating a clover lawn (although non-native) or using buffalograss (Bouteloua dactyloides), which is native to North America. When spreading seed, it is important to keep seed-to-soil contact and to keep watered for adequate germination.

4. Planting Timeline

Perennials can be planted in the spring as long as any threat of frost or freeze has passed, which is usually mid-May. Spring in Kentucky is often unpredictable. Perennials can be planted earlier if the weather warms, but it is risky due to late frost and freeze. The latest to plant perennials in Kentucky is mid-September. This allows roots to mature and harden before freezing winter temperatures settle in for the next few months.

Generally, spring-blooming trees and slow-growing hardwood trees should be planted in early spring. Faster-growing trees can be planted in spring or early fall. Trees and large shrubs planted in the heat of the summer can have a hard time establishing and will suffer transplant shock.

A Native Garden’s Ecosystem Services

The key elements of this design aiding climate change and providing ecosystem services include:

• Reducing lawn, which takes high water use, carbon emissions/resources for mowing, and associates with chemical usage.
• Increasing shade by planting trees to lower surrounding temperatures in the summer months.
• Plantings that will catch carbon dioxide, produce oxygen and capture/filter stormwater runoff.
• Providing habitat and food sources to wildlife and pollinators.
• Using permeable materials for the driveway and hardscape allows water to filter through instead of contributing to stormwater runoff.

Design Considerations and Key Features

Front Yard

In this design, I wanted to create an aesthetic front yard for curb appeal and ease of care while still being unique. Often, my clients want the front yard to appear tidier since it’s viewable from the street. I began by locating evergreen inkberry holly (Ilex glabra) shrubs along the foundation and as anchor points in the garden beds to offer some winter interest.

I used a repetition of purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea), sedges (Carex spp.), and grasses across the different garden beds to create a cohesive and peaceful feeling. Most plants in the front yard are shrubs and groundcover types, with some Echinacea to offer some summer color. Some of the groundcover plants will stay green during the winter as well. Sedges and grasses offer a soft texture to the landscape and will create movement in the garden on a breezy day.

Witch hazel (Hamamelis virginiana) is a late fall blooming shrub and one of the only blooming plants in November and December. Even in these cold months, I will see small native bees pollinating the yellow flowers of this native shrub. After flowering, squirrels will come and feed on the seeds.

Front Yard Shrubs:

• Witch hazel (Hamamelis virginiana)
• Chokeberry (Aronia melanocarpa)
• Inkberry holly (Ilex glabra)
• Wild hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens)
• Virginia sweetspire (Itea virginica)
• Bush honeysuckle (Diervilla lonicera)
• Red osier dogwood (Cornus sericea)

Groundcover Type Plants:

• Creeping phlox (Phlox subulata)
• Sedge (Carex cherokeensis)
• Prairie dropseed (Sporobolus heterolepis)
• Pussytoes (Antennaria plantaginifolia)

Bird Habitat

At the southeast corner of the front yard is a shrubby corner that creates a small wildlife habitat for birds under the large shady oak tree. Birds like to roost in natural areas that have layers. Here, we have the oak as a canopy tree, then a layer of large and small shrubs, perennial plants, and ground cover. The chokeberry shrubs, purple coneflower, prairie dropseed, and sedge groundcover offer berries and seeds for birds to forage on.

Side Yards

I designed a gravel pathway with inset stepping stones at the side yards. When we install designs, we like to use gravel that will compact so it is sturdier underfoot. Depending on the color of the home, the gravel and stone can be of a cool or warm tone. On the east side of the home, the walkway is lined with switchgrass (Panicum virgatum) to offer a soft texture along this property line. On the west side of the home, the walkway begins along the driveway to expand its functionality by offering additional space for getting in and out of the car.

Backyard

In the backyard, I wanted more relaxed plantings that were viewable from the deck and an additional hardscaped patio with a pergola. A native honeysuckle vine (Lonicera sempervirens) can be grown on the pergola, which will attract hummingbirds.

Pond & Backyard NW Shade Garden

Off the patio is a small pond with a circulating waterfall feature. This will support birds that are looking for a water source and could also attract frogs, dragonflies, and other wildlife. Native blue flag iris (Iris versicolor) can be planted in pots and set into the pond. A pathway wraps around the pond for viewing access from all sides.

A pond kit with liners and pumps can be purchased from retailers specializing in pond construction. Different sizes of boulders, cobblers, and gravel can be ordered from local landscape suppliers to hold the liner in place and decorate the pond. Here in zone 7a, ponds can generally be operated all year unless we have below-normal winter weather conditions. This provides a much-needed habitat for birds in the winter.

Under the existing redbud tree (Cercis canadensis) and around the pond is a small shade garden. In this shade garden, we have used layering with a redbud understory tree, spicebush (Lindera benzoin) shrubs, and wild ginger (Asarum canadense) as a groundcover. This layering effect creates more habitat that will attract more birds to this area of the yard. There are several species of native plants that will bloom from spring and into fall. Blue wood aster (Symphyotrichum cordifolium) is a fall-blooming shade aster with beautiful blue flowers. Wild blue phlox (Phlox divaricata) is a blue spring bloomer that adds a soft fragrance to the air.

Sunny Northeast Pollinator Garden

At the northeastern part of the yard, there is a colorful pollinator garden featuring native plants that bloom during the summer months. This sunny area in the backyard will attract butterflies and bees. There is a layering effect to this garden. The back border of switchgrass adds a soft background to the garden. The next layer of plants are taller bushier native plants of wild bee balm (Monarda fistulosa) and amsonia (Amsonia tabernaemontana), then other tall prairie-type plants: purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea), tall garden phlox (Phlox paniculata), beardtongue (Penstemon digitalis), and blazing star (Liatris spicata). The front borders are shorter plants of butterfly milkweed (Asclepias tuberosa) and nodding onion (Allium cernuum). Many of these plants will reseed themselves in the garden if given the right environment.

North Shade Garden

The north side of the home, against the back of the house, will be one of the shadiest areas on the property. Under the serviceberry tree (Amelanchier arborea), east of the deck, is a Christmas fern (Polystichum acrostichoides) garden with wild columbine (Aquilegia canadensis) scattered throughout that will offer some color in the spring and attract hummingbirds. The Christmas fern will stay evergreen through the winter, offering seasonal interest.

Maintenance and Supporting Habitat

Leaving the Leaves

Leaves from trees that fall in autumn are a great source of organic matter for the garden. A garden bed or mulch ring with leaves also creates a nice hibernating spot for pollinators and other beneficial insects through the winter. Leaving the leaves supports these beneficial insects like ladybugs and lightning bugs.

Spring Garden Cleanup

Leaving plants standing through the winter also provides habitat and food sources for birds, pollinators, and wildlife. Cutting back this foliage in late spring allows beneficial insects to hatch and leave their nest. Cutting and disposing of the brown plant material too early can also dispose of the pollinators and beneficial insects. This brown paper also acts as insulation and helps plants overwinter.

Mulching & Living Mulches

Reducing mulching needs is one way to reduce overall maintenance in a garden. Bare soil and mulched areas invite weeds and invasive species. Use groundcovers that will fill in areas underneath shrubs and between feature plants. This can include plants that spread by root or seed. Create a groundcover planting plan by choosing plants with a similar competitive ranking of low, medium, or high spread rate.

Watering

I tell my clients that the garden should receive an inch of water per week, whether from rainfall or manual watering. Those plants with a higher watering requirement should receive consistent hydration. A native plant garden can survive drought, but it will look better with consistent water. It is important for evergreen plants to stay hydrated in late summer and fall so they have a better survival rate through winter and are less likely to be prone to browning. Drip irrigation can be installed to assist the homeowner and can be used when establishing plants or during times of minimal rainfall.

Plant List

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